Keep in mind when evaluating and dating earrings you believe to be antique that styles have been recycled through the decades. A pair made 10 years ago may have been inspired by Victorian jewelry, for instance, and have a very similar look. A pair may also be altered, like those converted from screw backs (popular from the late Victorian era through the early 1950s) to pierced (favored earlier in the Victorian era before they were deemed barbaric and again in modern styles made since the mid-1960s) at some point. So, use styles as one clue to determine when a pair of old earrings may have been made, but examine the elements such as stones, metal content, construction, they type of back, and other factors before making a final conclusion. Regardless of the age, you’ll be able to describe the style correctly using the examples below as a guide. Button earrings can be comprised of many materials including cabochon gemstones, Bakelite, and other plastics, or even genuine mabe’ or blister pearls. Some are set in metal backings, while others have the earring finding attached to the back of the button material. Earlier examples fasten with screwbacks while those made in the 1950s and ’60s usually have clip backs. Modern versions made since the mid-1960s can be found in pierced versions as well, although clips like the Chanel examples shown here are still being sold today. They are found in antique fine jewelry made of karat gold and genuine gemstones, and also glass and plated base metals in costume jewelry (like the pair marked Hattie Carnegie shown here crafted of crystal beads, rhinestones, and gold plated base metal). Other specific styles, like the girandole described below, are sometimes generically called chandelier earrings rather than using their more formal name. Antique drop earrings can be found made of everything from natural elements such as precious metals, jet, genuine gemstones, or woven hair. Vintage versions of the fashion variety can incorporate glass, varied plastics, and some natural substances such as wood. Drop earring styles have been widely reproduced based on antique examples, so be sure to take materials, construction techniques, and signs of age into consideration when dating them. Developed around 1700 in France (and named for the crystal-pendant candelabras of the day), the style is typical of 18th-century jewelry and underwent a renaissance during the revival of Rococo styles in everything from furniture to dress in the 1870s. This type of earring is still popular today although sometimes referenced as the more generic term “chandelier” as described above. These were designed with a marquise (known as a navette when referencing rhinestones) or round top in which a bow made of complementary metal work connects a coordinating drop. The example shown here dating to the 18th century is crafted of high karat gold and rough cut diamonds that were foiled to give them more brilliance by candlelight. “These earrings could be quite elongated in opposition to the tall coiffures popular at the time. This style was the evolutionary predecessor of the two stone earring, which features a smaller stone suspending a larger one, that has remained popular throughout history,” according to Antique Jewelry University. Most antique earrings made in this style are fine jewelry made of precious metals and genuine gemstones, but many interpretations of made with paste stones (essentially the European name for rhinestones) set in base metals with or without plating have been made since 1900 or so. The term pendeloque is often used to reference a pear-shaped dangle today and is sometimes misused by marketers. The two parts, which may be made of any material, usually match, though the second may be larger or longer. The style dates to the late 18th century, but became so popular during the Georgian era that the term “top and drop” was synonymous with “earring” in the early 1800s. Although originating centuries ago, the style has remained popular since then. Originally, when earrings were suspended from hooks or wires, the top section of a top and drop earring dangled just below the earlobe; with the advent of post pierced earrings, however, the “top” of a top and drop earring often rests in the lobe itself. However, the custom of piercing ears fell out of vogue around the same time. Screw backs were more prevalent from the early 1900s through the early 1950s, and then clip earrings (first used in the early 1930s) had a mid-century surge in popularity. Most stud earrings found today date to the mid-1960s to modern day styles (and it’s hard to date some of them since the basic ball style, for instance, has been made continually). Many older gemstones have been removed from antique jewelry to fashion beautiful modern earrings in this style. Some studs have threaded posts like those shown here so that the clutch back screws into place for security. This practice came about in the Victorian-era, but the threaded post was used on fine jewelry in the decades following (and still is today) so that shouldn’t be the only indicator of age when evaluating this earring style. A special thank you goes out to contributing writer Troy Segal for her assistance with this feature on earring styles.
