Whether you want to change the style of a pair of pants or your height makes buying off the rack difficult, or even if you need to alter some hand-me-downs, learning to sew a hem is an important home sewing skill.
seam ripper pins full-length mirror (if hemming yourself) sewing gauge or measuring tape iron and ironing board matching thread sewing kit or sewing machine
If you are shortening the hem, you may be able to do so without doing anything to prepare the hem, but you can unpick the original hem to reduce bulk. When lengthening the hem, you’ll always need to start by unpicking the original hem. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitching. For example, if you measure the hem while barefoot, when you go to wear shoes the pants will end up much shorter than you wanted. It’s helpful to have someone who can do this for you because it keeps the length even. Bending to pin it yourself alters the length. That said, you can pin the hem and then stand up and check the length in a mirror. Adjust as needed, and repeat. Measure all the way around both legs to make sure that the fold is even, pinning as you go. Press the hem with an iron to crease the bottom edge. Fold the edge of the fabric under to make it a double-fold hem. If there is a lot of extra fabric from shortening the hem, you may want to trim the excess first. If you do this, be sure to finish the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying. Thread a needle and tie a large knot at the other end. Note: These photos show light-colored thread so it’s easy to see, but you should always use matching thread so the stitches don’t show as much. Bring the needle up through the top edge of the folded hem. Sew with blind hem stitch, making tiny stitches through the fabric on the outside of the pants and longer stitches through the folded fabric on the back. Machine: Use a standard straight stitch to sew the new hem in place. Keep the stitching straight and even for a professional finish. If you’re familiar with the different stitches on your sewing machine, you can also sew with a blind hem stitch by machine. The look is similar to the hand-sewn version. No-Sew: This isn’t usually a good permanent solution, but there are several types of adhesive tapes designed for hemming. Some are iron-on and others are a peel-off tape. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions before you use these materials.
